Surfing is (like) Life

Yesterday was my second surf session with Fireside Surf at Grandscape. As I cleaned off after my session, I had a bit of an epiphany: Surfing is a reflection of my life.

Background

I grew up in Southern Illinois, where no major body of water existed. For fun, I joined the swim team the summer between my seventh and eighth-grade years and again three years later. Much to my surprise, I made it to state every year but never did well, coming in with second and third-place ribbons, never first. To be completely transparent, I also never practiced outside group sessions. It took me until I became a teacher and coach to understand the importance of this.

I also started watching Rocket Power around eighth grade, thinking how cool those cartoon kids had it because they could skate, surf, and do whatever.

Basically, what I’m saying is that I’ve always been drawn to the water.

Woo- now that I got that over, let’s return to the present day.

Mid-Life Crisis

I’m forty, and God chose to give me a mid-life crisis. I’ve been stuck with the plaguing question of “What do I do now?” The job I loved has been taken away. The husband I love has been taken away. That’s a good bit of my identity!

On a whim sometime in March, I decided I wanted to go to California for my fortieth birthday. I booked a surf session and a trip to Disneyland. That was it.

Scrolling through Instagram, I noticed a neat restaurant coming to Grandscape at the Colony in May, so I booked a session. I thought I could go to Scheels and have them help me prepare for the oceans. Winning!

I could not make the session because my interview that day ran over. However, I was a bit glad after I got there to eat with Breanna and our friend Lacey. That simulator looks scary!

Thankfully, they did let me re-book for July 9th.

Now We’re in the Water

So, on my birthday, I surfed in the ocean. It was a wonderful experience—I met cool people and got a feel for what it’s like in the ocean. There was no pop-up, but that’s okay. One of the riders in the session before me didn’t get any either, so I was not disappointed.

I got home bleary-eyed and quickly booked a second session at Fireside Surf that was set to happen sooner. Everything about that session was enthralling. I loved the comradery and the feeling of being out there. However, I sucked. I did not want to let go of my instructor’s (Lewis) hands. I think I went three times and said, “Nope. I’m done for the day”.

Session two was yesterday. I could approach the water with a little less apprehension, and I must say, I am a LOT better at getting in (Side note: at Fireside, you get in standing up, which is a totally different experience). I did let go of my instructor’s hand this time and found my biggest fear was falling in.

My first time getting out 6.20.24

Getting more confident 7.09.24

The Epiphany

We’re back where I started- finishing session two at Fireside and session three overall.

For this sport, I’m “older.” I love it, though. Finally, that part of me feels like I could be friends with Otto, Reggie, and the crew.

I love it- just like I love my life.

And… I am learning, just like I’m learning how to handle my new life.

I get out there and surf as regularly as I can. Likewise, I get up daily and live without my person. Knowing full well that people are cheering me on.

I feel my aching body as I clean up from this session, knowing that when I return (because my next session is already booked), I will be more confident in what I can do, and the waves will look less intimidating.

The same in life.